This is an article for customers who have purchased a Breitling at our online LUXE.
In this article, we will introduce how to use products with three-needle models among Breitling.
For those who have purchased a mechanical watch for the first time, we will also touch on the basics of watches, such as the difference between a mechanical watch and a quartz watch (battery operated).
Anyone interested is welcome to read it.
There are two main types of wristwatches: mechanical and quartz (battery-powered).
In general, the power of wristwatches can be roughly divided into two types: mechanical and quartz (battery-powered).
Many Breitling products fall into the category of "mechanical watches". (Of course, there is also a quartz type like the one on the right)
This mechanical watch is a clock that works with a spring mechanism.
First of all, I would like to tell you one thing.
Quartz-type (battery-type) and mechanical-type wristwatches look exactly the same, but they are actually different genres, with some being electric, and others being precision instruments.
Therefore, I would appreciate it if you could understand that even the same watch is completely different.
I will explain from the basics for those who start using it for the first time this time.
It may take some time, but please bear with us until the very end so that we can use this precious item for a long time.
For first-time mechanical watch users
Mechanical watches are available in self-winding and hand-winding models, both of which are powered by a mainspring.
A car toy with a big screw.
After that, when the fully wound mainspring returns, it stops.
The principle is exactly the same.
The screw that winds the mainspring has changed to a crown, which is a hand-wound type.
Automatic winding is a type that automatically winds the mainspring by using the movement and vibrations worn on the arm instead of using a screw.
If you do not know whether the product you purchased is manual or automatic, please check the movement chart on the relevant product page.
Both the hand-wound and self-winding types are the same in that they stop when the mainspring returns completely.
In the case of Breitling's 3-hand model, if you remove the watch and leave it in a state where there is no movement or vibration, it will stop after about 38 hours, or about 70 hours at the longest.
Although it depends on the type of movement, it is normal for a mechanical watch to stop after 2 days for a short one and 3 days for a long one.
Example: People who take off their watches on their days off
If it's a short 40-hour power reserve, it's dead when I take it off for the weekend and put it on on Monday.
Even a watch with a long 70-hour power reserve stops when I try to put it on after the three-day weekend.
As long as you don't wind up the mainspring in the middle, take it as normal.
*If you want to know the operating time of the product you purchased, please check the "power reserve" in the movement chart on the product page.
*Note: Power reserve is the amount of time that the mainspring can be wound up to keep the watch running.
If the watch stops, please adjust the time and date each time.
if the clock has stopped
Here are the steps to take if the clock has stopped.
First, check the type of crown on your watch.
Non-screw locking
screw lock type
* If you do not know which one, please check the "crown" in the case chart on the corresponding product page.
If it is a screw lock type, first remove the crown lock.
From here, we will explain based on the numbers on the dial so that the explanation is easy to understand. (Example: 12 o'clock direction = upward, 6 o'clock direction = downward)
If you turn the crown in the direction of 6 o'clock, it pops out when you turn it to some extent.
*If it does not pop out
bite a little
In that case, after returning it to some extent, I think that it will come out after returning the crown a little to the 12 o'clock side.
This state is the unlocked state.
With this state as the zero stage, the first stage is the date and the second stage is the time adjustment.
*There is no crown lock for the non-screw lock type.
* Some past models and other manufacturers have only one crown.
First, regarding the zero stage, you can manually wind up the mainspring by turning it in the direction of 12 o'clock.
As well as hand-wound watches, self-winding watches also have an auxiliary function.
How to wind the crown
There are two ways to wind the crown.
"How to roll up and up"
After rotating the crown once, release your finger, pick it up again and rotate it one more time.
"Method of winding while rotating up and down"
After turning the crown once in the direction of 12 o'clock, turn it in the direction of 6 o'clock (opposite) without releasing the crown, and repeat the operation
We are often asked, "Which one is better?"
There is no right way to do it, so please use the method you prefer.
I think that method 1 is easier to turn at the beginning, so I think that you can wind it up with method 1.
However, it is generally said that 2 is better for machines.
How about changing to method 2 when you get used to it?
This is a digression, but the winding method of the 2 crown creates a professional atmosphere.
For those who are particular about the gesture, we recommend the 2 winding method.
Manual winding
A hand-wound watch has a very simple structure that only moves when the crown is wound.
As you turn the crown, you will feel that it gets heavier and heavier, and eventually you will not be able to wind it any further.
Please note that if you try to wind the watch forcibly in a place where it cannot be wound any further, the mainspring will be cut and the load will be too high, causing a malfunction.
To prevent the mainspring from running out
For first-time users, it's natural that it's hard to tell where it's full.
As you use it over and over again, it will gradually become heavier, so that you can understand the full state where you can not wind it up any more.
When you feel that it is getting a little heavy, don't wind it all the way to the end.
It is difficult to set a standard because each person has different sensations and the length of one rotation, but if it is completely stopped, I think that 10 to 20 times is not enough to wind it at all.
If it's a Breitling, I think it will be full after winding it at least 20 or 30 times, and depending on the person, about 60 to 70 times.
Also, if you use the watch every day, it is said that winding the mainspring every day at about the same time will stabilize the transmission of power and is good for the machine.
Try to make it part of your daily routine, such as immediately winding up about the company.
The more you touch it, the more you become attached to it.
There is certainly such a mysterious feeling in a hand-wound watch.
For self-winding
* If you wear it on your arm, the mainspring will naturally wind up, so please consider manual winding as a supplementary use.
As for when to use it, it is mainly used as a hoisting aid.
when the watch stopped
Desk work or people who take off their watch while working
If any of the above apply to you, please wind the watch manually.
1 If stopped
If your watch has stopped, try manually winding it slowly about 20 times in the direction of 12 o'clock.
If you wind it that much, I think it will continue to work for half a day.
! If you suddenly wear it on your arm!
If you match the time and calendar and put it on your wrist as it is, the mainspring will not be wound at all.
Therefore, the torque (power) is insufficient and the time cannot be kept accurately, and the clock time may be off by 5 or 10 minutes in the first 30 minutes to 1 hour.
To make up for the lack of power, manually wind the mainspring before use.
2 Those who mainly work at a desk or take off their watch while working
A self-winding watch winds the mainspring with a weight called a weight when the watch worn on the wrist shakes or moves.
However, if you work on a computer every day and your arms are barely moving, you may not be able to wind the mainspring properly with the automatic winding.
There are various reasons for this depending on your lifestyle, but if the mainspring is not winding well with the automatic winding, please wind it manually as a supplement.
Align the time and calendar
Then, after winding the mainspring by hand, we set the time and calendar.
1. Pull the crown two steps and be sure to start with the time adjustment
Right now, it's stopped at 10:00, but I can't tell if it's 10:00 in the morning or 10:00 at night.
First of all, check the am and pm for the clock.
Turn the crown according to the time and advance the hands clockwise, and let it pass 12 o'clock once.
At that time, if the date changes, it will be midnight, and if the date does not change, it will be 12:00 noon.
Then turn the hands clockwise to set the current time.
! important point!
When setting the time, do not turn the hands in the opposite direction as much as possible.
Just like you can't go back in time, watches are designed to work in one direction.
There is no problem in returning it just a little, but if you advance it in the opposite direction significantly, it will cause a malfunction.
Please take note.
Then set the calendar.
* When the crown is pulled out, it comes out in order of 1st step and 2nd step, but when it is put back, it suddenly goes to 0th step.
2. Pull the crown out one step
Then slowly turn the crown to fast forward the date and adjust.
Breitling's in-house movement can always fast forward the calendar, and there is no fast forward prohibition time zone, so you can use it with more confidence.
Be careful! Important points about the fast forward date function
Do not fast-forward the date between 8:00 pm (20:00) and 3:00 am!
*Some models of Breitling products prohibit fast forwarding of the date from 8:00 p.m. to 3:00 a.m.
As I explained earlier how to set the date, Breitling watches always try to count up to the 31st of every month.
However, according to the calendar, some months have only 30 days, and February has only 28 days.
If you use your watch every day, the date may be off at the beginning of the month.
In that case, you will need to pull out the crown, which I explained earlier, to adjust the calendar.
However, there is a rule that the calendar should not be fast-forwarded during certain time periods.
It's a little confusing, but for this watch, don't fast-forward the date between around 8:00 pm (20:00) and around 3:00 am (03:00).
In fact, the gears that change the date on the calendar begin to mesh little by little around 8:00 p.m.
The calendar changes around midnight, and then the gears for changing the calendar gradually move away.
For Breitling movements, that time is from 20:00 to 03:00.
If you fast-forward during this time, the gears may chip or become jammed, causing malfunction, so please be careful not to do so.
*To confirm the caliber used in the product you purchased, please see "Caliber" in the movement chart on the product page.
Points
Breitling's in-house movement is always fast-forwarding.
There is no fast forward prohibition time zone, so you can use it with more confidence.