This is an article for customers who have purchased a Breitling at our online LUXE.
In this article, we will introduce how to use a product with a chronograph (stopwatch) function among Breitling.
For those who have purchased a mechanical watch for the first time, we will also touch on the basics of watches, such as the difference between a mechanical watch and a quartz watch (battery operated).
Anyone interested is welcome to read it.
There are two main types of wristwatches: mechanical and quartz (battery-powered).
In general, the power of wristwatches can be roughly divided into two types: mechanical and quartz (battery-powered).
Many Breitling products fall into the category of "mechanical watches". (Of course, there is also a quartz type like the one on the right)
This mechanical watch is a clock that works with a spring mechanism.
First of all, I would like to tell you one thing.
Quartz-type (battery-type) and mechanical-type wristwatches look exactly the same, but they are actually different genres, with some being electric, and others being precision instruments.
Therefore, I would appreciate it if you could understand that even the same watch is completely different.
I will explain from the basics for those who start using it for the first time this time.
It may take some time, but please bear with us until the very end so that we can use this precious item for a long time.
For first-time mechanical watch users
Mechanical watches are available in self-winding and hand-winding models, both of which are powered by a mainspring.
A car toy with a big screw.
After that, when the fully wound mainspring returns, it stops.
The principle is exactly the same.
The screw that winds the mainspring has changed to a crown, which is a hand-wound type.
Automatic winding is a type that automatically winds the mainspring by using the movement and vibrations worn on the arm instead of using a screw.
If you do not know whether the product you purchased is manual or automatic, please check the movement chart on the relevant product page.
Both the hand-wound and self-winding types are the same in that they stop when the mainspring returns completely.
However, in the case of a Breitling chronograph, if you remove the watch and leave it in a state where there is no movement or vibration, it will stop after about 38 hours, or even about 70 hours at the longest.
Although it depends on the type of movement, it is normal for a mechanical watch to stop after 2 days for a short one and 3 days for a long one.
Example: People who take off their watches on their days off
If it's a short 40-hour power reserve, it's dead when I take it off for the weekend and put it on on Monday.
Even a watch with a long 70-hour power reserve stops when I try to put it on after the three-day weekend.
As long as you don't wind up the mainspring in the middle, take it as normal.
*If you want to know the operating time of the product you purchased, please check the "power reserve" in the movement chart on the product page.
*Note: Power reserve is the amount of time that the mainspring can be wound up to keep the watch running.
If the watch stops, please adjust the time and date each time.
if the clock has stopped
Here are the steps to take if the clock has stopped.
First, check the type of crown on your watch.
Non-screw locking
screw lock type
* If you do not know which one, please check the "crown" in the case chart on the corresponding product page.
If it is a screw lock type, first remove the crown lock.
From here, we will explain based on the numbers on the dial so that the explanation is easy to understand. (Example: 12 o'clock direction = upward, 6 o'clock direction = downward)
If you turn the crown in the direction of 6 o'clock, it pops out when you turn it to some extent.
*If it does not pop out
There are many cases where the bite is a little misaligned.
In that case, after returning it to some extent, I think that it will be easier to pop out if you return the crown a little to the 12 o'clock side at the end.
This state is the unlocked state.
With this state as the zero stage, the first stage is the date and the second stage is the time adjustment.
*There is no crown lock for the non-screw lock type.
* Some past models and other manufacturers have only one crown.
First, regarding the zero stage, you can manually wind up the mainspring by turning it in the direction of 12 o'clock.
As well as hand-wound watches, self-winding watches also have an auxiliary function.
How to wind the crown
There are two ways to wind the crown.
"How to roll up and up"
After rotating the crown once, release your finger, pick it up again and rotate it one more time.
"Method of winding while rotating up and down"
After turning the crown once in the direction of 12 o'clock, turn it in the direction of 6 o'clock (opposite) without releasing the crown, and repeat the operation
We are often asked, "Which one is better?"
There is no right way to do it, so please use the method you prefer.
I think that method 1 is easier to turn at the beginning, so I think that you can wind it up with method 1.
However, it is generally said that 2 is better for machines.
How about changing to method 2 when you get used to it?
This is a digression, but the winding method of the 2 crown creates a professional atmosphere.
For those who are particular about the gesture, we recommend the 2 winding method.
Manual winding
A hand-wound watch has a very simple structure that only moves when the crown is wound.
As you turn the crown, you will feel that it gets heavier and heavier, and eventually you will not be able to wind it any further.
Please note that if you try to wind the watch forcibly in a place where it cannot be wound any further, the mainspring will be cut and the load will be too high, causing a malfunction.
To prevent the mainspring from running out
For first-time users, it's natural that it's hard to tell where it's full.
As you use it over and over again, it will gradually become heavier, so that you can understand the full state where you can not wind it up any more.
When you feel that it is getting a little heavy, don't wind it all the way to the end.
It is difficult to set a standard because each person has different sensations and the length of one rotation, but if it is completely stopped, I think that 10 to 20 times is not enough to wind it at all.
If it's a Breitling, I think it will be full after winding it at least 20 or 30 times, and depending on the person, about 60 to 70 times.
Also, if you use the watch every day, it is said that winding the mainspring every day at about the same time will stabilize the transmission of power and is good for the machine.
Try to make it part of your daily routine, such as immediately winding up about the company.
The more you touch it, the more you become attached to it.
There is certainly such a mysterious feeling in a hand-wound watch.
For self-winding
* If you wear it on your arm, the mainspring will naturally wind up, so please consider manual winding as a supplementary use.
As for when to use it, it is mainly used as a hoisting aid.
when the watch stopped
Desk work or people who take off their watch while working
If any of the above apply to you, please wind the watch manually.
1 If stopped
If your watch has stopped, try manually winding it slowly about 20 times in the direction of 12 o'clock.
If you wind it that much, I think it will continue to work for half a day.
! If you suddenly wear it on your arm!
If you match the time and calendar and put it on your wrist as it is, the mainspring will not be wound at all.
Therefore, the torque (power) is insufficient and the time cannot be kept accurately, and the clock time may be off by 5 or 10 minutes in the first 30 minutes to 1 hour.
To make up for the lack of power, manually wind the mainspring before use.
2 Those who mainly work at a desk or take off their watch while working
A self-winding watch winds the mainspring with a weight called a weight when the watch worn on the wrist shakes or moves.
However, if you work on a computer every day and your arms are barely moving, you may not be able to wind the mainspring properly with the automatic winding.
There are various reasons for this depending on your lifestyle, but if the mainspring is not winding well with the automatic winding, please wind it manually as a supplement.
Align the time and calendar
Then, after winding the mainspring by hand, we set the time and calendar.
1. Pull the crown two steps and be sure to start with the time adjustment
Right now, it's stopped at 10:00, but I can't tell if it's 10:00 in the morning or 10:00 at night.
First of all, check the am and pm for the clock.
Turn the crown according to the time and advance the hands clockwise, and let it pass 12 o'clock once.
At that time, if the date changes, it will be midnight, and if the date does not change, it will be 12:00 noon.
Then turn the hands clockwise to set the current time.
! important point!
When setting the time, do not turn the hands in the opposite direction as much as possible.
Just like you can't go back in time, watches are designed to work in one direction.
There is no problem in returning it just a little, but if you advance it in the opposite direction significantly, it will cause a malfunction.
Please take note.
Then set the calendar.
* When the crown is pulled out, it comes out in order of 1st step and 2nd step, but when it is put back, it suddenly becomes 0th step.
2. Pull the crown out one step
Then slowly turn the crown to fast forward the date and adjust.
Breitling's in-house movement can always fast forward the calendar, and there is no fast forward prohibition time zone, so you can use it with more confidence.
Be careful! Important points about the fast forward date function
Do not fast-forward the date between 8:00 pm (20:00) and 3:00 am!
*For some models of Breitling products, fast forwarding of the date is prohibited from 8:00 p.m. to 3:00 a.m.
I explained how to set the date above, but Breitling watches always try to count up to the 31st of every month.
However, according to the calendar, some months have only 30 days, and February has only 28 days.
If you use your watch every day, the date may be off at the beginning of the month.
In that case, you will need to pull out the crown, which I explained earlier, to adjust the calendar.
However, there is a rule that this calendar must not be fast-forwarded during certain time periods.
It's a little confusing, but for this watch, don't fast-forward the date between around 8:00 pm (20:00) and around 3:00 am (03:00).
In fact, the gears that change the date on the calendar begin to mesh little by little around 8:00 p.m.
The calendar changes around midnight, and then the gears for changing the calendar gradually move away.
For Breitling movements, that time is from 20:00 to 03:00.
If you fast-forward during this time, the gears may chip or become jammed, causing malfunction, so please be careful not to do so.
*To confirm the caliber used in the product you purchased, please see "Caliber" in the movement chart on the product page.
Points
Breitling's in-house movement is always fast-forwarding.
There is no fast forward prohibition time zone, so you can use it with more confidence.
After adjusting the time and calendar, finally set the crown to the zero position and the watch with a non-screw lock crown is finished.
Finally, screw-lock watches should have their crowns locked.
The spring can be pushed in from the zero stage state of the crown.
While pushed in, turn the crown in the direction of 12 o'clock (upward) to screw in the crown.
As it is, if you screw it in to some extent, it will stop at the end.
It is enough if the crown stops lightly, and it is also waterproof, so please do not screw it in too much.
【important point】
If the crown lock is left open, water or moisture may enter and cause malfunction.
When adjusting the time or calendar, be sure to check that the crown lock is closed before use.
How to use the stopwatch
Next, I will explain how to use the stopwatch.
The button at 2 o'clock is start/stop and the button at 4 o'clock is reset.
What does each counter (memory) indicate? Normally, there are "hour", "minute" and "second" hands in the middle.
In the case of the 01 movement in the photo, the longest hand in the middle is the second hand of the stopwatch .
"The second hand of the time" is a counter at the 9 o'clock position
At the 3 o'clock position is the 30-minute totalizer , which is used to see how many minutes have elapsed since the stopwatch was measured.
30 minutes can be measured in one round.
At the 6 o'clock position is the 12-hour counter .
This is to see how many hours have passed since the start of measurement with a stopwatch.
You can measure up to 12 hours in total, with one memory for 1 hour.
For example, when measuring the time it took from home to Disneyland, I stopped the stopwatch at the site.
At that time, you can see how many hours, minutes, and seconds it took.
To be honest, I don't think I'll use it much in my daily life, but I think it's a very cool design for people who like designs like measuring instruments.
Precautions while using the stopwatch
Stopwatch start and stop button at 2 o'clock
Do not press the reset button while the stopwatch is running
* A load in the moving direction and the opposite direction is applied at the same time, and in some cases the needle may come off.
Characteristics of mechanical watches
Now, let me explain the characteristics of mechanical watches.
At the very beginning, I explained that the mechanical type and the quartz type (battery type) are different things.
The biggest difference is the "time error".
Quartz-type (battery-type) watches usually have a monthly difference (one month) of about 15 seconds.
In addition, products such as radio clocks and smart watches can accurately measure time without deviation.
In modern society, time can be measured without error.
However, even the best mechanical watches, which fall under the category of precision instruments, have an error of around 10 seconds every day .
Assuming 10 seconds a day, it will be 2 to 3 minutes off in 10 days to 2 weeks.
Every day the time is off, but that's normal for a mechanical watch.
The width of this gap varies depending on natural conditions such as temperature and humidity, and how the product is used.
In extreme terms, how you place your watch while you sleep can also make a difference.
Please understand that with a mechanical watch, the time may be off .
Also, again, the machine inside is a precision instrument.
In fact, some parts are as thin as one-third of a human hair, and others are as small as 1mm or less, making them extremely delicate.
If you wear it on your hand and hit it lightly against something, the time can be greatly out of date or the watch can stop working.
I think it's just right if you keep it in a corner of your mind, saying, "It's very delicate, so you have to handle it carefully."
Precision watches are much more prone to failure than battery-powered watches, requiring repairs and fine-tuning.
Therefore, in general, the number of years for repair is often longer than that of quartz type (battery type).
In Europe, people keep using things that are 100 years old even at home.
I think that mechanical watches were born in such a culture of repairing and using one thing for a long time.
Of course, mechanical watches can break down and require regular maintenance.
Extreme story, it may stop immediately after purchase.
Just keep using one watch for a long time while repairing, adjusting, and performing regular maintenance.
I would appreciate it if you could understand that such a way of thinking is at the root of mechanical watches.
The quartz type (battery type) that pursues convenience is honestly the opposite product.
However, I think it's perfect for people who have a lot of attachment to the watch, such as winding up the mainspring and setting the time every day.
About the magnetization of mechanical watches
In recent years, the number of repairs of the magnetic band of mechanical watches has increased significantly.
If it gets magnetized, the time will be greatly out of order, and in extreme cases it may stop working.
Examples of causes of magnetic bands around us
computer
electric appliances
smartphone
car remote key
magnetic necklace
handbag magnets
etc.
In modern society, there are many things around us that cause magnetization.
To be honest, it is more difficult to use without magnetizing at all.
If there is magnetism, you can remove the magnetism, so there is no need to be serious.
However, please be aware that it will be affected by bringing it close to or in contact with the above.
Future maintenance
We would like to explain about the maintenance of your watch so that you can use it comfortably.
Breitling guarantees 5 years for in-house calibers and 2 years for other movements.
*If you are unsure, please check the "Service Guarantee" on the product page you purchased.
Natural failures within this period will of course be repaired free of charge.
If you have any questions about using it, please feel free to contact us.
In addition, the watch you purchased this time will start working in earnest when you use it.
In rare cases, defects (initial troubles) that could not be found with conventional inspection equipment may occur.
(For example, the time is delayed by a few minutes a day, the date does not change, etc.)
Therefore, please pay attention to the condition of the watch for about a month after purchase.
In the unlikely event that a problem is found, it is often possible to use the product for a longer period of time with peace of mind by properly adjusting and repairing it first.
Mechanical watches are supposed to break, but we hope that you can use them for a long time by properly maintaining and repairing them each time.
Regular maintenance (overhaul)
Lastly, I would like to talk about regular maintenance (overhaul).
Mechanical watches are precision instruments, so you can use them for a longer period of time if you perform regular maintenance such as vehicle inspection once every few years.
For in-house calibres, once every 5 to 7 years, for other movements, once every 3 to 4 years.
In general, the watch is often broken and brought in for repair.
However, when it breaks without maintenance for a long time, there are many cases where loads are applied to various parts of the machine.
By performing maintenance as regularly as possible, you can keep your watch in good condition.